NEWSLETTER FOR SEPTEMBER 2009

Editorial.

Another summer season is over. I hope you have all safely returned from your travels, no matter where they were. We now look forward to the Autumn and our 60th dinner. I have finally completed the Offa's Dyke path and can recommend it to anyone who likes beautiful scenery. I was very surprised at what we saw, one view in particular stands out, Tintern Abbey seen from The Devil's Pulpit on the path above the Wye. It is hard to believe that this is still the UK. We had some very good food on the trip, as it was, also, a holiday! Particularly recommended is the Hunters Moon Inn in Llangattock-Lingoed, if you can find it! The owner is a very good chef, and his beer is really good too. Not too expensive and excellent value.

Tan-yr-Wyddfa, Oread & JMCS Meet Sat 5th Sun 6th September Sally Dipple

This is a joint with our new kindred club the JMCS (Edinburgh section) at TYW. As the only member of both clubs, I'll lead the meet so please let me know if you can come, and would like a place booked. JMCS stands for - in case you didn't know this - the Junior Mountaineering Club of Scotland but without wishing to be unnecessarily rude, there is nothing overtly junior about any of them (of course I include myself) - except maybe their youthful outlook on life. So Oreads will find well matched new friends - and maybe some new winter climbing partners as well - for the cold months when we will be able to enjoy the facilities of their huts - the Smiddy (Dundonnell) and the recently acquired 'Cabin' (Newtonmore, replacing the old Jock Spot's hut) up in Scotland. Please come along and make our new kindred partner members welcome. Let me know.

Culm Coast Meet Sat 12th Sun 13th September. Graham Weston

Do you still possess a sense of adventure? If you read the list of first ascents and it is full of names like Mick Fowler, Keith Darbyshire and Pat Littlejohn, do you close the book quickly? If you read further and you find the paragraph that begins "Cliffs like these may well explain the recent increase in popularity of indoor walls", do you put the book down, never to lift it again? If not…….. Come to the Culm Coast. I intend to camp at Stoke Barton Farm. Stoke Barton, Hartland, Bideford, (http://www.westcountry-camping.co.uk/) This is within walking distance (about 1 mile) of Screda Point and Hartland Quay (pub). Other locations are within a shortish drive. I have never stopped here before but it seems quite central.

End of Summer Curry & Climbing Meet- 16th September (Matlock Bath Balti) James Tubby

Following my article in the previous newsletter, no one has said that they want to go! However I am assuming that is because we have all been busy over the summer and have gone ahead and made a provisional booking at the Matlock Bath Balti, the traditional venue for the meet. Following Rob's plea for more use of Black Rocks, this will be the pre climbing venue. If for some reason we finish climbing before 8:00pm then we'll wait in the County & Station. Please let me know if you want a place by Wednesday 9th September. Note that the date of 16th September is earlier than the original date published in the meets list.

Heathy Lea Meet, Sat 24th Sun 25th October Colin Hobday.

You will recall that in the Oread questionaire on Heathy Lea last year one of the questions was what type of meet you would like of which cycling was amongst the top answers. So now is your chance, we shall cycle to Heathy Lea, spend the evening at the Robin Hood, and cycle back to our starting point. Full details in the next Newsletter To secure your place in the Pelaton, bookings to Colin Hobday

News, Articles and Reports from past meets. Skiing 2010

There are plans afoot for a skiing trip next February. We will be going over February half-term (Feb 13th-20th 2010) and probably staying in catered chalets. The venue is still being discussed. If anyone would like to join us, then please get in touch. Simon Pape

60th Annual Dinner 14th November 2009. Neil Weatherstone

Just a reminder that the 60th Annual Dinner will be held at the New Bath Hotel at Matlock Bath. If you haven't received the order form already, it will be with this newsletter. Simply fill in the form with menu choices and return to me with the payment (£22 inc starter, main, dessert and tea/coffee) before Monday 2nd November. I have quite a few bookings already, so don't put it off, do it now rather than at the last minute. Your guest speaker is Richard Mayfield. Richard is a professional climbing instructor who last year completed the Hard Rock challenge, climbing all the routes from the Hard Rock book during the course of a very wet British summer (watch out for the DVD). He has an interesting and varied climbing career, starting out in the hills of North Wales, followed by a stint in the Armed Forces which included his escape from the Army's near-disastrous Mt Kinabalu expedition which disintegrated into chaos in Low's Gully. Richard escaped but only after an eight day solo period with no food in remote Borneo. Richard has been working as a climbing instructor for many years and guides for The Orange House in Spain (www.theorangehouse.net). Accommodation is available at the New Bath Hotel. The cost is £45 per person, which includes breakfast. Please state that you are attending the Oread Dinner when booking. If anyone has any questions please call me.

Tan yr Wyddfa Revamp.

On the hottest week of the year 7 Oreads carried out a mass attack on decorating the inside of Tan-yr-Wyddfa after all the building work had left the hut in need of a make over. Work done , Paint all the bays, paint staircase, dining room, and hallway. Fill in cracks and plaster in the lounge, paper and paint. Visit local refuse site to dispose of rubbish. Special thanks to, Graham Foster, Pam Storer, Uschi Hobday, Chuck and Margaret Hooley Nick Evans who worked 11 hours one day. Colin Hobday

Annual Dinner Photo Competition

The winner will grace the front of the annual dinner menu. In recent years there have been some excellent submissions. All entries to be in by 2nd November. Either digital or ye olde worlde style photographs are fine Hint: pictures, which have space for text have been winners in the past. Neil & Tracey Weatherstone will judge, and the judges' decision will be final!!

40 Epoints!!!

Climbers always want the details. Whether it's the exact order of the random selection of routes one has picked to try to complete in a day or the intricacies of the crux pitch of some alpine horror show. "I'm thinking of trying to tick forty E points for my fortieth." I said to no one in particular. And so started the interrogation. All on the lead? How long will you give yourself? Do they have to be on sight? Which guidebook are you ticking the grades from? I back pedalled furiously. "Or I might go for forty three star routes. Or forty stars." But word gets around as it usually does and suddenly I was committed. Grit obviously had the advantage of short routes and much less physical hard work to get up them, but limestone offered immunity from the heat and good gear. More than anything, I wanted venues where I'd always climbed well and felt confident. Friday night at Staden then. Sunday morning at Pic Tor. Finally I decided that familiarity would outweigh the stout grades and plumped for Stoney for Saturday. The best laid plans and all that. I wandered into a near deserted Staden Quarry. It was nearly 6pm and there were no likely belayers in sight. I passed a few pleasant minutes in conversation with a team already in action. All that fuss and I'd got an excuse for failing already! At which point a Tigger like character bounced into view demanding to know why I hadn't got my harness on. "I thought you'd be tied on and hanging out of that tree, " said Graham, pointing at the nearest route as he struggled rapidly into his own harness. A few sinker runners and a couple of stiff pulls and I was at the top of Charas. One down . Graham pointed me up Paraplege. More of the crew turned up. Banter floated around in the summer evening air. I was starting to enjoy myself. Paraplege was a little balancey but a couple of good RP's protected the lower crux and gained me a solid Rock 1 for the final long stretch. Four points. People came and went, with good wishes and more banter. We headed off for some old favourites, Cathy's Clown and the quarry classic of Welcome to Hard Times. It was getting late when I set off up Captain Reliable. I laced the crack below the crux bulge. Then I started adding some more runners. "Are those not bomber, Rog?" Graham ventured mildly. They were but I saw no reason not to add more, never have done really. I hauled through the steepness to the good holds and breathed a sigh of relief. Wait a minute, nothing seemed to be happening to my arms. I tried again. Dragging myself higher I got my feet on and took a breather. "Stylishly done," is what I think I heard Graham say. At the top of Liquid Courage it was getting very gloomy. Even the keenest of the support crew were heading for the pub. Graham raced up behind me. "One more?" "Rude not to really," I replied. We scooted down the abseil rope and I set off again. The Nails seemed like a good choice until I remembered the top groove and its smeary foot holds. Which I couldn't see. I clipped some pegs and peered hopefully at my feet. It was nearly 11pm by the time we got back to the cars but I had fifteen points in the bag. Game on.

Walking into Stoney on Saturday morning was not inspiring. The cloud was low and the road still wet from overnight rain. Never mind, Windy Ledge will be dry. Inquisitor felt o.k. but the grass at the top was wet which added a little spice. The crux of Windhover felt hard, but then it always does. Dave may have inadvertently left a runner or two in at the bottom as he followed. A couple of lads inquired: "Are they your runners over there?" Dave started to explain."Oh, you're the bloke who's trying to tick forty E points." Dave and I looked at each other. This had really caught the imagination. I headed back up. On my feet and relaxed crossing the slab high on Armageddon - I need more like this. My arms were really feeling it on Dies Irae. 23 points but I was tired and it was muggy. Perhaps it will rain I mused, hopefully.

I took a break and we headed over to Millstone. It was steamy, without a breath of wind and the midges were biting. I felt relaxed and on my feet on Knightsbridge, but the Embankment cracks felt much steeper than they should do. I was exhausted and it felt like I was failing. The afternoon was wearing on. Finally I decided on a crafty top rope or two to boost the tally. Edge Lane and Green Death were duly dispatched. It was a cop out but the midges were worse and the crag almost deserted. Time to go home.In the cool of Sunday morning a brisk walk took me to Pic Tor. I think Chris waited until Amy was safe at the top before taking her off to belay me. Silenus is an old favourite and seemed steady. I abbed off the tree and stripped it. Perhaps I was too relaxed because Cistron seemed harder than it should. Dave followed with a grin. That will have to do, thirty points on the sharp end, ten on top rope. I raced off to prepare for a birthday party. I was humbled by the generosity and enthusiasm of everyone who belayed and encouraged. Maybe with cooler weather and better planning it could have been the full forty on the lead. Next year? Well I think I have some serious belaying to do first. Roger Gibbs.

Heathy Lea Summer Beer Festival - 11th/12th July

Simply combining beer and climbing worked out very well, how could it fail? There was some climbing done on Baslow, Froggatt, Birchens and Gardoms Edges, one party visiting 3 of the crags on foot. But it wasn't until the evening that the meet started in earnest, about 20 or so Oreads attended Saturday evenings drinking session. A bonfire was built and BBQs stoked up and many sausages were consumed. Once multiple pints of the three beers on offer were drunk much nonsense was spoken, stories told and strange ideas took shape. Someone decided that a pickled egg-eating contest was needed, rather like the film 'Cool Hand Luke'. The meet leader managed to eat the most eggs, his cavernous cheek pouches almost bursting at one point. Once swallowed, the eggs reacted with the beer and started to magically expand, his stomach became swollen and very convex, a very similar affect was experienced by Sharon about 6 months earlier, the affects still visible in the photo.

The Saturday evening was great fun and a good time was had by all. A similar event has been mooted for Sat 7th Nov 2009, keep an eye on the newsletter for further details. Thanks to everyone who came and contributed, especially Dave Roscoe who brewed most of the beer (but wasn't able to drink it!!). Neil Weatherstone.

Summer Stroll Sunday 21st June.

When I arrived at the Youlgreave car park at Moor Lane there was only Pete Janes and Digger Williams sitting in their car so the average age of walkers was in the 80's. Others soon arrived to lower this average somewhat and we set off to enjoy a pleasant walk around the Lathkill in glorious weather. Rob and Rusty sped off in the wrong direction at first, but no-one bothered to tell them! Coffee was taken once we were out of the woods, giving the ever energetic Rob time to cross the river and explore the crag in Low Dale. Unfortunately not having a machete with him he was unable to battle through the vegetation and never found the crag, although I doubt if anyone has ever climbed there since it was first developed. Others explored the ruins of Bateman House and some even descended the shaft. The team split up somewhat at this point, some staying in the valley whilst others followed the rim path to savor the view. Eventually all met up at the pub in Monyash. As usual on an Oread walk the whole thing disintegrated from then on and varied routes were followed on the return. As leader, following the principal of leading from rear, I had to stay to ensure the no-one was left behind in the pub and found myself with the geriatric group again. Lovely day. Thanks for attending to Mick & Jill, Rob & Jane, Pam & Dave, Chris & Jan, Pete & Judy, Rusty, and Digger & Janes (bless 'em). Derrick Burgess.

Bonfire Night Beer Festival (with Music) 7/8 November Advanced trawl

Calling all club musicians / singers - talent needed. Following the success of the Beer Festival held at Heathy Lea in the Spring, there will be a Bonfire Night Beer Festival at Heathy Lea, on the W/E 7/8 November. The Oread Brewers are honing their recipes. Mr Roscoe is Meet Leader There are plans this time for music in the bar(n) too. I am looking for members of a musical ( instrumental or singing ) bent, who fancy participating to get in touch with ideas / offers, whether for individual spots or as part of a scratch ensemble, or both. I will be on hand to provide general guitar backing and sing a few songs, particularly chorusy ones.The keynote should be participation and, rather than perfection. (likely to be unachievable and unrecognisable anyway as the beer flows) Ideas to me by email please. Mike Wren

Hut Bookings. For September.

Please note that hut fees should always be paid to me and no one else. Colin Hobday.

  

HEATHY LEA


Sept. 11/12th. K. Fellfarers cottage. 
Sept. 19th. BMC meeting ? HSCM. 
Sept 25/26 Eden M.C. cottage. 

TAN-YR-WYDDFA


Sept. 4/5th, Joint meet J.M.C.S. 
Sept. 11/12th. J Young 16 beds. 
Sept. 13 - 15th. Hucknall MC 8 beds. 
Sept. 18/19th. L.M.A. 16 beds 
Sept. 25/26 Tony Smedley whole hut. 

Oct, 2/3rd. South Cheshire 16 beds

FORTHCOMING MEETS


Sept.Sat 5th Sun 6th T-y-W Oread/JMCS Joint Meet Sally Dipple
Sept Tues 8th Committee Meets Smithfield Derby
Sept Sat 12th Sun 13th Culm Coast Graham Weston
Sept Wed 16th Last Outdoor Meet and Curry James Tubby 

October Sat 10th Sun 11th T-y-W Curry Meet Tony Howard 
Oct Tues 13th Committee Meets Smithfield Derby 
Oct Sat 24th Sun 25th Heathy Lea Colin Hobday 

November Sun 1st Dovedale Dash Rob Tresidder
Nov Sat 7th Sun 8th Heathy Lea Bonfire
Nov Tues 10th Committee Meets Smithfield Derby
Nov Sat 14th 60th Annual Dinner Neil Weatherstone
Nov Sun 15th Post-prandial Walk