Reiff Rogue Meet – Jubilee Bank Holiday week 2012

Dave Mawer.

“Roll up roll up, for the ultimate alpha male contest! For one night only, the Middleton Ox versus the Southwell Silver back…….” This will be one of the many memories I will treasure from the Reiff Rogue meet 2012. Most of you will agree that seeing almost 30 Oread and their families smiling and laughing over the course of the week safely constitutes a successful meet! The campsite was perfect. The weather was very kind with a predominant easterly wind keeping away the dreaded midge and no precipitation to write home about. Porpoise, seals, otters, golden eagles and osprey were amongst the plethora of wildlife spotted throughout the trip. 

After breaking up long journeys north with visits to a “field” south of Blair Atholl due to an A9 closure and crags such as Dunkeld near Pitlochry and Ardmair near Ullapool, the campsite’s main “street” was gradually taken over by meet members after Victoria’s Mum and Dad reserved the premier pitch. Castle Dipple even had its own moat! Meanwhile Messers Lancaster and Wilson were enjoying the midges on Arran where they and Jan undertook the Glen Rosa horseshoe, taking in Beinn Nuis, Beinn Tarsuinn, the ridge on A’Chir and on to Cir Mhor. After this they set out to do Black Cave Pillar, a HVS on the sea cliff of Bennan Head but bravely retreated due to vegetation and the lack of a thick pair of gloves.

Due to limited parking in the tiny hamlet of Reiff itself, many chose the 2.5 mile coastal bike ride sending heavy climbing sacks with an advanced vehicular party. The areas of the Pinnacle and Sealsong were sampled first and despite their popularity, being the closest crags and a sunny west facing aspect, the queues weren’t long.

As the week progressed the more adventurous found their way to the northern tip of the peninsula. These crags were about an hour’s walk from the parking, made easier by noticeably dry bogs. The highlight of my week was partnering Roger on “Spaced out Rockers on the Road to Oblivion”. The best route I have done since the last one! It epitomised all I love about climbing; commitment, adventure, exposure, a north facing aspect, the trust of a climbing partnership topped off with a large dollop of terror. After relinquishing the abseil rope following a severely overhanging approach, I tied on above the booming sea. The first pitch traversed large rounded breaks to land in a niche below an imposing wall barring access to the belay ledge. It was some time later I arrived on this a little flustered and wide eyed after lunging for a thin but thankfully solid jug handle, relieved not to have plummeted beneath the overhangs 20ft below me due to the run out and the extra-long quickdraws I had placed to prevent gear lifting out. After constructing a 5 point belay (such was my disposition), Roger soon joined me looking more relaxed than I felt. He was soon away on the main pitch, however what this one lacked in commitment it made up for in available gear and required effort. Sporting 2 racks of friends and playing to the assembled crowd he reached an impasse half way along the 45m pitch and the exposure became greater than his steely resolve. His face said it all!

We later emerged triumphantly into the sunshine. What a route, worth every one of its 4 stars and guidebook “title” of the best route on the peninsula (in my humble opinion). After mis-reading a text and wrongly assuming I had all day we called in at the Golden walls for a few routes before making a “scenic” trek back to Reiff after not looking at the guidebook map, oops, trouble was probably deserved!

With no respite in the glorious weather, the following days called for yet more climbing. Black Gold area and Boulder Cliff were explored where Graham and Nea joined myself, Victoria, Tullan and Kyya for an ascent of the delightful Tystie slab and the classic Black Gold. Other teams explored Pooh cliff and Minch wall.

Meanwhile Mike Mowbray was doing battle with the Crack of Desire which saw him return a day later with the necessary “Oooja” to lead myself and Roger up it. Roland, having only climbed about 2 routes this year prior to arriving at Reiff, ate this for breakfast and continued up the direct finish that same day. 

Thanks to all for a fantastic holiday! Negotiations for next year’s weather has commenced as a return is already in demand.

PostScript

Roger and Sharon will be pleased to find out for next year that the government are mooting that carers may be eligible for a free holiday! Priscilla Roscoe may also be very pleased.

A certain long-standing Oread found the key to happiness is not just more climbing but actually lies at the bottom of a glass of Pimms and lemonade!

On the way home we found the best fish and chips in the world in Ullapool and Mike Mowbray auditioned for National Lampoon’s Fishing vacation on Loch Garten. 

Chris and Jan headed north to Sandwood bay and Durness, whilst Richard and Ruth drove to Skye to join a Derwent Club Meet.