Climbing the Needle – Gordon Gadsby.   March 2011

It was a warm sun dappled day in the mountains of central Lakeland with great fleecy white clouds drifting slowly above the towering rock spires of Great Gable. With Colin Hobday and George Reynolds I was climbing Napes Needle, the most famous rock pinnacle in England. Although less than 100 feet high, the ascent is difficult and exposed as the needle holds a commanding position over one thousand feet above the valley floor.

The rough rock was cold to the touch as I climbed in shadow up the prominent crack on the west wall of the pinnacle. Colin carefully paid out the rope as I inched my way up the steep forty foot high wall. Ten minutes later I stepped carefully around a rock spike and into sunshine on the airy south face of the needle. In that clear space below my feet I could see the great sweep of rock, scree and jumbled boulders right down as far as the sparkling waters of the Lingmell Beck in the valley bottom. Far beyond the river I could see the neat fields and farms around Wasdale Head leading down to the placid surface of Wastwater, Cumbria’s deepest lake. Napes Needle circa 1960.

Above me a slab rose up to the neck of the needle, the holds were good and soon I was anchored on that narrow perch below the spectacular summit block. Fifteen minutes later Colin and George had joined me on the stance. George was keen to lead the final pitch which, on close inspection , seemed devoid of holds and, at least, severe in grade. However it held no fears for George; he climbed the vertical edge then traversed on a tiny sloping ledge to the front of the overhanging block. He grinned down to us between his boots. “It’s a bit thin here mate” he called. “You’ll love it”. So saying he made a strenuous upward movement and mantelshelved cleanly up the smooth wall and onto the top. Soon we were together on that much coveted rock steeple – the view was great – the situation fantastic.

Later that day we ascended Arrowhead Ridge which, although 250’ higher, seemed easy by comparison to the Needle. From the Ridge Top we scrambled to the summit of Great Gable at 2949’. The view was magnificent; in the south Scafell dominated the scene, craggy ramparts stark against the evening sky. In the south east beyond the long ridge of Glaramara the Langdale Pikes were bathed in sunlight; southwest was Wastwater and the sea. We descended quickly by the way we came, anxious to be back at the tents before dark. When we reached the vicinity of Arrowhead Ridge, we followed the popular climber’s track that scrambles down between the rock ridges, taking great care as the rock in places is reputed to be loose. Colin and I were in front and had just negotiated the last rock band in the gully.

Soon we would reach easier ground, then a quick scree run down to the river and a pleasant three miles walk back to camp. Suddenly a loud cry “Look out below” came from George. We looked behind us. He was part way down the rock band. Beneath his feet the wall was breaking up! Great blocks as big as oil drums trundled slowly towards us, lurching this way and that between the narrow walls, smaller rocks and stones whined and ricocheted above us. There was no way out – Colin and I pressed ourselves flat against the gully sides as the blocks crashed and splintered around our heads and bodies. The air was full of choking yellow dust and the frightening smell of sulphur, every second we thought would be our last. Miraculously thirty seconds later we emerged , dishevelled, cut and bruised, but without serious injury. Above us George was hanging from his finger tips above a gulf of air and was quickly rescued.

Later as we walked back along the valley track with other Oreads, Ray College told us that the rock fall was as big as any he had seen in the Alps and showed us where the rocks had come to rest a thousand feet below in the middle of Lingmell River. It was a sobering sight; I thought of the words of the Chinese Philosopher, Confucius, “Absence of body is better than presence of mind” – somehow we seemed to have been blessed with both that day. (circa 1960’s)