40 E points!!!  – SEPTEMBER 2009 – ROGER GIBBS.

Climbers always want the details. Whether it’s the exact order of the random selection of routes one has picked to try to complete in a day or the intricacies of the crux pitch of some alpine horror show. “I’m thinking of trying to tick forty E points for my fortieth.” I said to no one in particular. And so started the interrogation. All on the lead? How long will you give yourself? Do they have to be on sight? Which guidebook are you ticking the grades from? I back pedalled furiously. “Or I might go for forty three star routes. Or forty stars.” But word gets around as it usually does and suddenly I was committed. Grit obviously had the advantage of short routes and much less physical hard work to get up them, but limestone offered immunity from the heat and good gear. More than anything, I wanted venues where I’d always climbed well and felt confident. Friday night at Staden then. Sunday morning at Pic Tor. Finally I decided that familiarity would outweigh the stout grades and plumped for Stoney for Saturday.

 The best laid plans and all that. I wandered into a near deserted Staden Quarry. It was nearly 6pm and there were no likely belayers in sight. I passed a few pleasant minutes in conversation with a team already in action. All that fuss and I’d got an excuse for failing already! At which point a Tigger like character bounced into view demanding to know why I hadn’t got my harness on. “I thought you’d be tied on and hanging out of that tree, ” said Graham, pointing at the nearest route as he struggled rapidly into his own harness. A few sinker runners and a couple of stiff pulls and I was at the top of Charas. One down . Graham pointed me up Paraplege. More of the crew turned up. Banter floated around in the summer evening air. I was starting to enjoy myself. Paraplege was a little balancey but a couple of good RP’s protected the lower crux and gained me a solid Rock 1 for the final long stretch. Four points. 

People came and went, with good wishes and more banter. We headed off for some old favourites, Cathy’s Clown and the quarry classic of Welcome to Hard Times. It was getting late when I set off up Captain Reliable. I laced the crack below the crux bulge. Then I started adding some more runners. “Are those not bomber, Rog?” Graham ventured mildly. They were but I saw no reason not to add more, never have done really. I hauled through the steepness to the good holds and breathed a sigh of relief. Wait a minute, nothing seemed to be happening to my arms. I tried again. Dragging myself higher I got my feet on and took a breather. “Stylishly done,” is what I think I heard Graham say. At the top of Liquid Courage it was getting very gloomy. Even the keenest of the support crew were heading for the pub. Graham raced up behind me. “One more?” “Rude not to really,” I replied. We scooted down the abseil rope and I set off again. The Nails seemed like a good choice until I remembered the top groove and its smeary foot holds. Which I couldn’t see. I clipped some pegs and peered hopefully at my feet. It was nearly 11pm by the time we got back to the cars but I had fifteen points in the bag. Game on. 

Walking into Stoney on Saturday morning was not inspiring. The cloud was low and the road still wet from overnight rain. Never mind, Windy Ledge will be dry. Inquisitor felt o.k. but the grass at the top was wet which added a little spice. The crux of Windhover felt hard, but then it always does. Dave may have inadvertently left a runner or two in at the bottom as he followed. A couple of lads inquired: “Are they your runners over there?” Dave started to explain.”Oh, you’re the bloke who’s trying to tick forty E points.” Dave and I looked at each other. This had really caught the imagination. I headed back up. On my feet and relaxed crossing the slab high on Armageddon – I need more like this. My arms were really feeling it on Dies Irae. 23 points but I was tired and it was muggy. Perhaps it will rain I mused, hopefully. 

I took a break and we headed over to Millstone. It was steamy, without a breath of wind and the midges were biting. I felt relaxed and on my feet on Knightsbridge, but the Embankment cracks felt much steeper than they should do. I was exhausted and it felt like I was failing. The afternoon was wearing on. Finally I decided on a crafty top rope or two to boost the tally. Edge Lane and Green Death were duly dispatched. It was a cop out but the midges were worse and the crag almost deserted. Time to go home.

In the cool of Sunday morning a brisk walk took me to Pic Tor. I think Chris waited until Amy was safe at the top before taking her off to belay me. Silenus is an old favourite and seemed steady. I abbed off the tree and stripped it. Perhaps I was too relaxed because Cistron seemed harder than it should. Dave followed with a grin. That will have to do, thirty points on the sharp end, ten on top rope. I raced off to prepare for a birthday party. I was humbled by the generosity and enthusiasm of everyone who belayed and encouraged. Maybe with cooler weather and better planning it could have been the full forty on the lead. Next year? Well I think I have some serious belaying to do first.