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Oread Mountaineering  Club Newsletter  September 2010


Club pioneers in the Bernina Alps 1961. Note the ex-army anoraks & ice axes

Editorial. (Last Date for next edition 26/09/10)

I have just returned from 2 weeks on the club’s alpine get together. After going to the Alps off and on for nearly 40 years it has been the most inhospitable weather I have ever seen. In the past I have had continuous rain for a week then a week’s sun, some atrocious storms, but never has it stopped me getting into the mountains and climbing a peak, however small. The social side was excellent and plenty of walking, rock climbing and eating was done, to say nothing about the alcohol consumed!

This month’s magazine marks the start of late summer/autumn, with thoughts about annual dinners and even next season’s winter stuff.

The photo above is an interesting item from the club’s early days when climbing was, shall we say, a little less sophisticated, ie a rope and no runners, bolts or protection. Thanks Chuck its great to see how it should be done!!! Any guesses as to who the participants are? REMEMBER TO SEND DINNER INFO TO POSTAL RECIPIENTS

Agden Rocher Sun 5th September 2010

Dave Heliwell

The Oread have always had a meet at Agden. A very different crag with good routes in all grades. Good walking in the area .Sadly the campsite under campsite crack is overgrown, so meet on the crag in the Martini area at 11.00hrs. Afterwards in The Old Horns pub. Nearest pub to Bradfield brewery .Contact Dave on this number if you want to arrange transport etc. 01298 812753

Baggy Point Meet 11th & 12th September 2010.

Simon Pape

VENUE: Rock and Rapid Adventure Centre, Hacche Mill, South Molton,Devon EX36 3NA. Note: it is about 20-25 minutes from Baggy Point climbing, and roughly an hour to Dartmoor .Exmoor is only 5 minutes away for walkers, and the surfing beaches of the North Coast are only 15 minutes away.


Climbing on Baggy Point
North Devon Area Map











ACCOMMODATION:    sole Oread use of bunkhouse sleeping up to 30 adults. Fully kitted out with huge kitchen (all crockery and cooking equipment provided), lounge/dining area, 2 bunk rooms and 2

twin rooms. PRICE PER PERSON PER NIGHT: £10 (if we have more than 10 people that will go down).

INFO: : cate=1&topic=16&item=87

FACILITIES: Use of climbing wall for special price of £6 per session (in case of wet weather!):

07813616563 This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.


Popular climbing venue. Can combine it with surf at Croyde or Woolacombe. Baggy is best known

for its south facing promontories with lovely slab routes on culm - metamorphosed sandstone - with

good friction. Lots of friendly, well protected slab climbs mostly in S to E2 range with easy access. A mid-range climber's slab paradise.



Baggy Point - Long Rock Main slab
Baggy Point - Long Rock Left Hand slab


















TYW Working Meet 18th – 19th September 2010

Tony Howard (Hut Custodian)

The Hut Sub Committee is hoping for a good turn-out for this meet – there is plenty to do.  As you all know, a good deal of major work has been done at TyW over the last year or so.  This includes restructuring of the back room which now needs some cosmetic work to make it look tidy – as do other parts of the hut.  There is also a fair bit of preventative maintenance that needs to be carried out.  The work plan now includes:

  • Re-fixing roof slates on the extension.
  • Clearing guttering of leaves etc.
  • Review all taps in the hut, looking for wear, damaged washers or potential leakages.
  • Fit rucksack & boot racks.
  • Tiling above the new wash hand basin.
  • Decorate back room.
  • Paint barge board on front of hut
  • Treat the ‘John Shreeve’ bench
  • Chop wood (need a chain saw)
  • Clear the loft
  • Fix exterior light at rear of hut
  • Clear rubbish (e.g. bits of old coal bunker) from rear of hut & take to tip
  • Remove piles of ash & old coal from around coal bunker
  • Repair coal bunker:

If you have dust sheets you could lone us, please bring them along with you on the meet.  We need them for decorating.  We are also looking for donations of hand towels, clothes hangers & wine glasses (not little sherry glasses).


Since my son will be getting married during this weekend, I will not be there myself, so please contact Colin Hobday if you are able to come along (tel 01332 551 594, This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. ).

Last Evening Meet Curry - Wed 22nd September 2010

Simon Pape.

Wednesday 22nd Septmber is the last 'official' Wednesday climbing meet. As usual we will be marking the occasion at the Matlock Bath Balti House. Table booked for 8pm, if you are early then drinks in the County and Station beforehand. Pre curry climbing at Wildcat for those who like limestone, Black Rocks for those who like gritstone. Sadly I am now unavailable. Hopefully by the time you read this a new meet leader will have volunteered. If not then contact me to reserve a seat at the Balti house and I will pass onto the new meet leader. 07813 616563, or email via the Oread-mc email list. 

South Pembroke Meet -Thurs 23rd to Sun 26th September 2010

Roland Smith.

For those that don’t know South Pembrokeshire, it is easily the best limestone climbing in Britain, although if it were a popularity contest  Horseshoe Quarry would win every time of course .  It is generally pretty solid, often with good protection and always spectacular scenery.  As with most  limestone, it is better for anyone who leads VS or above, but any climber should find it is worth at least one visit.

I have been to Pembroke at about this time for the last two years  and on both occasions it has been the best trip of the year. The tides look good, so if the weather fairies are true to their word, then it will be three times in a row.

Apparently you won’t have actually heard of Pembroke before, as it was on BBC1’s “Secret Britain” programme last night.  The bloke off the telly was being taken up the three-star VS,  Blue Sky, at Saddle head.  If you have ever tried to get onto that route on a Sunny Bank Holiday weekend, you will join me in questioning its relevance to  anything with the word  “Secret” in the title.

Unfortunately the usual  camp-site in Bosherston has closed, so the venue will probably be St Petrox  which is about half way between Pembroke and Bosherston.   This may be subject to change if I can find a suitable camp-site  nearer to the pub, so let me know if you are planning to come and I will confirm nearer the time. , This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. , 075 000 65 176  See you there.

61st Oread Dinner -20th November 2010

Victoria Paterson.

) on Saturday 20 November at The Bluebell Inn, Tissington.  The cost is £16.50 per person or £12.95 per child for 3 courses  (a cheese course can be included for an extra £1.50 per person) The venue is a little out of the way with not a lot of accommodation nearby - The Bentley Brook Inn in Fenney Bentley being the nearest @ £80.00 per double room per night and so to this end I am looking into the possibility of arranging a minibus/small coach starting in Derby and picking up larger towns/villages along the way, probably following the A6 through Duffield, Belper then Wirksworth, Ashbourne, Tissington. This is just a possible route as I am not sure where the highest concentration of Oreads can be found aside from a Wednesday night!

I will be publishing the menu and asking for choices and payment from early September onwards.

If anybody has any questions about the dinner then please don't hesitate to contact me, home telephone is 01332 200167, also emailable at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. , if anyone leaves a message I will of course return it.

News, Articles and Reports from Meets.

Borrowdale June 26th – 27th

Simon Pape

Dear Mr West,

I'm pleased to report that the spirit of mountaineering is alive and well in the Oread, and indeed in the Northumberland Mountaineering Club.  On our recent Borrowdale meet, the Presidents of these two august bodies eschewed the roadside pleasures of Shepherds Crag, Falcon Crag and Pillar Rock.  Instead they disappeared off to Scafell and climbed Central Buttress.  The Honorary Member also headed to Scafell and climbed Mickledore Grooves and the Yellow Slab, but not without mishap.  Not only did our President beat him back to the hut, his trusty rucksack also choose to finally give up the ghost, before he could get it off his back!  The Presidents then retired to pub and had several pints of beer.  The Honorary Member stayed at the hut and doubtless drank Ovaltine and had an early night.

I feel you need to have words with the Trustee though, who missed your tirade at the AGM.  Gillercombe Buttress is a fine objective, and the approach from High House is not long, although it is steep.  The Trustee avoided this steep approach by driving round to Honister and walking in from there.  The Lancaster Lass walked from the hut and proved that this approach was just as quick.

Fatboy visited Corvus on Raven Crag, under instruction.  He claims that he burnt more calories than the whippets who walked to Scafell and he doubtless has a spreadsheet to prove it!  The Youngster took his parents to Seathwaite Slabs and had a good time.

The grumpy Engineer visited Gable Crag and was generally happy with the structural soundness of his Slabs (but not the approach scramble).  "And hast thou slain the Jabberwock?  Come to my arms, my beamish boy!  O frabjous day! Callooh! Callay!” He chortled in his joy.

Sunday was less productive.  The Geordie President ran away home.  The Oread President felt that the 5 minute walk-in to Quayfoot Buttress was quite far enough.  Fatboy visited Shepherds, the Honorary Member, fuelled by his Ovaltine, took the steep ascent to Gillercombe.  The Youngster headed to Glaciated Slabs for Cumbrian Maths lessons.  The Trustee?  Who knows?  The Lancaster Lass went for a walk.  The grumpy Engineer went to Sergeant Crag Slabs.

Winter Lecture Programme 2010/11

Tony Howard

The 2010/2011 Winter Lecture Programme will start on Tuesday 5th October.  We have, I hope, another exciting series of talks for you.  They will all be at the Royal Oak in Ockbrook, starting at 8pm – as usual.   This year we will kick off with the Members’ Evening - where 8 or 9 speakers will talk for about 10 minutes each.   If you would like a 10-minute slot, please let me know ASAP, providing me with a title and/or a resume of your topic plus what format you would use.

On Tuesday 2nd November we will have Alan Hinkes talking to us about his high altitude exploits.  This should be a superb evening, so I hope you will attend in large numbers.

Naranjo De Bulnes South Face 19th May 2010

Steve Christian

The cold grey dawn filtered through the window.  Mist swirled round the hut revealing the same view since we had arrived mid afternoon yesterday.  This same mist was responsible for the hut being cold, that and the lack of any heating inside.  It was so bleak we had resorted to wearing every piece of clothing we carried and were still cold.  The in built thermometer on my watch descended into single figures when left on the table top inside.  Mid June at an alpine hut set at 1960 metres should have been warmer.  But this was The Pico’s De Europa, where mists were legend, the guidebook talking of such events being the norm and encouraging words about finding regular inversions.

Breakfast was the normal continental affair, the coffee breathing life into an otherwise ordinary day.  Deliberations packing the sack, spotting others also intent on climbing and we were out into the early morning air, destination the Naranjo De Bulnes South Face.  In the mist ahead we weaved along limestone paths, between boulders and past bivvy sites, unsure of our exact whereabouts but confident enough to carry on.  Gradual descent, then a climb up over scree, rocks, snow patches and scrambling gullies and rock steps.  Then, breaking through into sunshine, as bright as any, barely metres higher than the hut, and welcome warmth.  And what views.  Limestone walls towering above, peaks over looking our progress, surety now entering our gait we climb over rock steps towards the foot of the south face.  The presence of a guide and two clients gives away the start of the route.

Despite the warmth of the sun, the rock is cold as I head up the first pitch, the crux, pinch gripping hard the ‘canelozas‘, parallel, vertical water worn grooves in the limestone.  Richard follows and the game is in motion, leading around into a cracked corner.  He’s gone for some time, the rope weaves slowly out, twinges of doubt creeping in at the slow nature of it all.  Finally I’m onward, climbing up smooth cold limestone, balancing carefully on shiny rock, continuing up steep cracked corners, totally absorbed.

The angle eases, flowing up slabs, cracks and corners.  Mist periodically wraps itself around the sun, weaving amongst the peaks, cooling the early morning air and welcome warmth floods through the veins when the sun manages to shrug off the veil.  Just ahead appears the first party of the day, gradually getting closer with each pitch, until eventually we dispense with the rope, easily passing them, scrambling beyond up ever easier limestone, breaking out onto the summit ridge.  Richard is highlighted behind me against the swirling cloud, amid a back drop of towers, valleys, mountains and scree.  Winter snow patches fill hollows in the valley floors and trace lines up couloirs to the highest cols.  And still we ascend, following the ridge, breaking through into the sun and blue sky, until finally there is no higher ground.  The Madonna sitting on the summit brings peace, no words available to capture the complete feeling of freedom, just an irreverent silence, no wind, no voices, just shallow breathing.  Lingering just long enough to justify the effort, not really wanting the moment to end, we slip quietly away, leaving the mountain top to itself, focus turning to re tracing our steps and doing so safely, for the chance to indulge this experience on another day.


Richard Hopkinson at the summit                                          Steve Christian on the Canalizos

Hut Bookings for September.

Please note that hut fees should always be paid to me and no one else. Colin Hobday. 


SEPT. 3/4th.                             vacant

SEPT. 10/11th.                          Slatley H.W.C.               cottage

SEPT. 17/18th.                          Coventry MC                 cottage

SEPT. 24/25th.                          London MC     possible booking?


SEPT. 4/12th                             C, Cullam        whole hut.

SEPT  17/18th.                          Oread WORK PARTY

SEPT  24/25th.                          Kendal MC   16 beds

Forthcoming Meets


Sun 5th

Agden Rocher

Dave Heliwell

01298 812753

Sat 11th Sat 12th

Baggy Point

Simon Pape

01629 822450

Tues 14th

Committee Meets Royal Oak Ockbrook



Sat 18th Sun 19th

Tan Yr Wyddfa Work Party



Wed 22nd

Last Evening Meet & Curry

James Tubby

01283 736737

Thurs 23rd Sun 26th

South Pembroke Meet

Roland Smith

0115 9691992


Sat 9th Sun 10th

Tan Yr Wyddfa

Open Meet at hut


Tues 12th

Committee Meets Royal Oak Ockbrook



Sat 23rd Sun 24th

Heathy Lea

Steve McDonagh

01332 202714

Sat 30th Sun 31st

Tan Yr Wyddfa Curry Meet

Tony Howard

01332 273307


Sun 7th

Dovedale Dash

Rob Tressider

01629 823953

Tues 9th

Committee Meets Royal Oak Ockbrook



Sat 13th Sun 14th

Bonfire Night at Heathy Lea

Pam Storer

01623 432560

Sat 20th

Annual Dinner

Victoria Patterson

01332 200167

Sun 21st

Post Prandial Walk







Copyright – Oread Mountaineering Club.

Editor: John Green, Ivy Cottage, Church Lane, Morley Derbys. 01332 832101

Email – This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.