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Editorial.

Well, as I write this, Spring is definitely in the air, the daffodils are in full bloom and the Derby Peregrines have laid their first egg! I have now completed all but my last Corbett, having spent 6 days in Scotland  last week. The snow was great for walking, but very difficult for skiing. I suppose it depends how good you are. An old chap told me at Nevis Range, “if you can ski well in Scotland, you can ski anywhere on earth” I think he must be right.

This month we have another great article by our star writer Steve Christian, the guy really should get some of his work published for all to read. (see the photo above) My favourite photo is the descent gully, where you really get a panorama of the area. We have a description of Mike Bate in Norway and write ups from last months meets. The clocks go forward this weekend so let’s get out there and climb some mountains!

 

Evening Climbing               Simon Pape.

It's nearly that time of year again.  Shortly after you receive this newsletter, the clocks will spring forward and it'll be time to leave the climbing walls and head out on to real rock.  This year we're trying some official evening meets loosely based around a pub, so various crags can be visited, or maybe some will organise a walk.  The rest of the time, I imagine that evenings (and indeed weekends and weekdays for the retired folk) will be organised by email or telephone.  If you're interested in getting out, feel free to either contact me by email or text, or even give me a call.

07813 615663 This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

 

Jersey, Easter 2010 April 2nd – 10th

Derek Pike.

Following a successful holiday to Jersey at Easter last year I find that I am now organising a Club meet to Jersey for this year. Considering the time of year  the weather we had last year was very good with only one bad day and that cleared up for the afternoon, this does not mean that  I am promising a week of sunshine. The island which is only about eight by five miles appears to have something for everyone from climbing, walking, cycling plus some gorgeous beaches.  We shall be camping at the Bleu Soleil campsite in the north west of the island near to the best crags and a fifteen minute walk to the beach or the pub which ever takes your fancy.  The campsite which unfortunately boasts a yellow and blue colour scheme has the usual facilities plus a good cafe cum restaurant and a hot tub. You may bring your own tent or rent one of theirs already erected. Your own two berth tent for seven nights £80, four berth £150. Rent a tent around £215 for two people.  Bookings for the ferry if done through the campsite, will save you around £100. [Condor ferries from Poole to Jersey via Guernsey, around 4 hours sailing]. Bookings to www.bleusoleilcamping.com or I will book it for you if you wish,  If you are intending to come for only a few days it is possible to fly direct to Jersey from Liverpool from around £60 return. A hire car for a short stay will probably not be needed as the campsite is only about 3 miles away from the airport. One benefit of taking your car to Jersey is that when you get there, there is no long drive to your final destination, around 20 minutes should suffice. Anyone taking a caravan or campervan will have to get a permit from the site owners. Caravans are only permitted to travel to the campsite and back to the port, and campervans must return to the site every night, no overnight parking in lay bys is allowed. A 1-25000 map of Jersey is available from the Map Shop Upton upon Severn 0800 085 40 80 or  www.themapshop.co.uk  Jersey Climbs by Kevin Eloury is available from Cordee  books www.cordee.co.uk Any further information required please phone me on 01332 670459 or e-mail This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

 

Wye Valley Meet, Sat 17th – Sun 18th April.

Angela Pingram.

Short reminder to book your places for the Wye Valley trip on the 17th/18th April. Good hut, next to good pub and central to some good climbing and walking or cycling.  Tea shops are nice too.  What more could you desire?

To book your place, please email or phone me:
This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.   0115 9691992 

Some of us are going to the pub for a meal on the Saturday night.  If you want to do the same then let me know so I can give them an idea of numbers.

Hut Location: Fountain Inn, Parkend, Lydney, GL15 4JD

 

Wed 21st April, Evening Meet, Robin Hood, Baslow.

Simon Pape.

All Oreads will be familiar with the Robin Hood and the surrounding area.  I imagine the crag of choice will be Birchen Edge, with it's classic routes of Topsail and Powder Monkey Parade, amongst others.  Maybe a few will visit our eponymous route on Gardoms.  If the weather stays dry, maybe even Chatsworth Edge will be in condition.  If it's wet, we could have a rerun of the fell race or an impromptu work party at Heathy Lea!  Whatever happens, I'm sure we'll be in the pub shortly after dark.  See you there. 07813 615663 This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

 

Heathy Lea Beginners Meet Sat 24th – Sun 25th April.

Michael Bate.

The Oread will be holding a meet aimed at encouraging novice and climbing wall based climbers, to get out outside and get their first taste of real rock climbing. This is a BMC funded event and will involve FREE instruction from a fully qualified mountaineering instructor. This 2 day event will be a fantastic way of introducing new people to the club and helping them take their first steps from inside to out, or even their first ever climb. I urge as many Oreads as possible to join in and introduce yourselves and show newcomers what a friendly and welcoming club we are. There are still places left on the meet for beginners so if you know of anyone that may be interested please pass their details on to me. The meet will start at 10am on the 24th of April at Heathy Lee. If you have any questions or know some one that may be interested please get in touch on 07827972287 or This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

 

 

Gower Meet: Early May Bank Holiday, 1st to 3rd  May 2010 

Reuben Dakin

I’ve just found this poor defenceless abandoned meet wrapped in an old copy of the meets list on my doorstep. It’s a bit malnourished and unloved, and could do with some Oreads to help me nurse it back to health.
The Gower is a superb location for all outdoors enthusiasts. There is a very wide range of sea cliff climbing all along the south coast of the Peninsula, with many routes within walking distance of the campsite. There are also good beaches, spectacular coastal walking and fine mountain biking.
We’ve booked in for the weekend at 3 Cliffs Bay Holiday Park, Penmaen, (01792) 371218 (mornings only), (http://www.threecli ffsbay.com/#, grid reference 534886). The small site has a superb location, is well equipped, and takes tents, campervans and caravans. There are a couple of pubs/ restaurants a mile’s stagger away.
As this will be a popular weekend, it hasn’t been possible to provisionally book spaces, so you’ll need to contact the campsite directly to make a booking. They’re filling up fast so you’ll need to contact them as soon as possible. Please also let me know if you’re coming, by telephoning 01332 834543 or by email. Hope to see you there

NOTE: When booking, make sure to mention that you are with the Oread Mountaineering Club party; the lady of the campsite should then put us together.

 

Northumberland 7th, 8th, 9th, May 2010

Dave Helliwell

I've booked Demesne Farm Bunkhouse at Bellingham.  See www.demesnefarmcampsite.co.uk

 The bunkhouse sleeps 15 people all bed linen is provided but no towels.  Cost is £13.66 per night.  There are pubs in the village that do food.

 For walkers the Pennine Way passes through the farm and for cyclists Kielder Forest is close by.

 The climbing is excellent and the nearest crags are Great Wharney, Callerheughes, East Woodburn and Crag Lough.

 I'm hoping to have some experts on hand from the Northumberland Mountaineering Club to point out the plums.

 If you're that way inclined I'm told there is excellent bouldering in Northumberland.

 Contact me to book your place on 01298 812753 or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Arran - Spring Bank Holiday.

Sat 29th May to Sun 31st May 2010 (or longer).

Chris Wilson.

A big thank you to all those who have let me know they are coming, on what should be a spectacular Bank holiday weekend.  There’s still time for the rest of you to join us.  The last ferry leaves Ardrossan at 20.30 on Friday night, so I shall be arriving at Lochranza on the Saturday.  The earlier folks book their ferry crossing, the more likely they are to depart at the time of their choosing.  The campsite has told me that they will find it simpler if bookings are done by one person (me), so I’ll be doing something about that very soon.

The island offers something for everyone – walking, climbing, cycling, as well as all the other associated activities. 

Later bookings will need to be done by individuals.

, Rolleston on Dove, Staffs DE13 9BG. Tel 01283 520911, email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Cornwall - Spring Bank Holiday.

Sat 29th May to Sun 31st May 2010 

Roy Eyre.

We are booked in again at Trevaylor campsite which is between St Just & Botallack.  So, for the people who want sun warmed rock, walking the coast path, swimming, not forgetting the Cornish pasties and cream teas, (no midges), this is the place to be. Please ring me on 01623 469658 before May 21st so that I have some idea of numbers. I will already be down there sorting out the good weather.

Oread Website 2010 Upgrade

Mike Wren.

New site now open www.oread.co.uk . Note a new feature…Members area, (top menu).  Access ( restricted to club members.) is via the “Log on” box at the lower left of the opening screen. All current members have been pre-registered, using data from club records. Generally details will be…Username     first name + surname initial            e.g. colin barnard  = colinb Password   BMC number (see membership card ) Members whose logons vary (eg same first name and surname initial) will be sent individual emails of details. Note: Members who have not supplied an email address, please get an emailing member to email in for you if you have logon problems. 

Oread Summer Alpine Meet 24th July to 15th August 2010

Steve Christian

The Uri or Urner Alps 

So far I have 11 definite attendees for our summer trip to The Uri Alps of Central Switzerland.  The dates for the trip as a whole spans a 3 week period, as some people have expressed an interest in joining us at the start of August and staying for two weeks.

There are two guidebooks of interest to us, The Alpine Club ‘Bernese Oberland’ (ISBN 0-900523-59-X)and ‘Plaisir West’ by Filidor (ISBN 3-906087-19-0).  The Alpine Club guide details information on the high peaks of The Bernese Oberland, just to the west of our campsite at Innertkirchen (http://www.camping-grund.ch) and also selected information on high mountain rock climbing and low level ridge traverses around the Grimsel Pass area.  The Filidor guidebook covers rock climbing areas from Haute Savoie, Bernese Oberland and The Valais, but in particular information on 14 crags around the area we are basing ourselves.  This covers valley crags and high mountain crags, covering a wider range than The Alpine Club guide, but does not include alpine mountaineering.  A quick review of the guide shows that there are climbs ranging in grade from French 3b to 6b+, with single and multi pitch options.  There are both traditional and bolted rock climbs on granite and limestone.

With regards to the campsite we will have a choice of how we set ourselves up on site, it being possible for us to have an area for ourselves where we can socialise more freely, if that is the preference of the group.  Ideally I would like to give the campsite some idea of provisional numbers by the end of April. 

So please do contact me to express a potential or definite interest on This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it., 01629 825292, 07824 623945 or at 1 Duke Street, Middleton, Matlock, DE4 4NB.

 

News, Articles and Reports from Meets.

 

Heathy Lea Fell Race, Sunday 21st March,10-30 a.m.

Simon Pape & Pete Scott

A lovely spring morning found 8 Oreads champing at the bit.
The 4 teams finished within 15 minutes of each other, sadly Reuben's team was rather delayed due to the muscles in Reuben's legs cramping his style.

Hare and Hound Teams: Chris and James, Simon and Michael, Rusty and Derek, Reuben and Chiz.

Refreshments and Trophy Presenter: Joan.

Base Commander: Pete

                    11 a.m. Is this it?                            !12-30 p.m. Guess who'll be organising next

         year's fell race (again).

 

An Ascent of Poachers Fall 6th March 2010 

Steve Christian.

The alarm was oblivious to the pitter patter of rain on the tent, which had been steady all night. At 5.30am it chirped but we didn't stir. Instead we had a conversation about the rain, justifying a lie in our sleeping bags. At 6.15am Dave pointed out that there had been a dry spell for quite a time, so we dragged ourselves out of bed. We busied ourselves sorting gear, getting breakfast and broke camp. We independently took a walk down the track to the other side of the big rock. Finally at 7.30am we set off from the car park. It was spitting with rain on and off, the mountains obscured by a damp grey veil. The track climbed steadily towards Coire Dubh Mor and despite the rain, it was pleasant to be moving into the mountains. Soon we caught two other climbers who had stopped by the track. We exchanged a few words and they headed back down claiming conditions couldn't be in form. We carried on and the path levelled off, now with the views into Coire Dubh Mor opening up. It was still spitting out of the sky when further on we passed four more climbers also heading down. Their excuse was soft snow and thawing ice. Dave and I looked at each other and wondered about carrying on, but we needed to see for ourselves.  We carried on, crossing the stepping stones over the Dubh Mor River and the first corrie came into view, Coireag Dubh Beag. There was ice alright but it looked white and of dubious quality. For the third time now we discussed options. Everything seemed to stack up against us. Dave had been here twice before unsuccessfully and always turned back before getting into the corrie. My belief was that we should get close enough to the crag to rule out any climbing and so we left the path, heading across open moorland. We started the grind up heathery bolder slopes passing melting ice and slushy snow. There was still no view into the corrie. Yet another halt for cheese pasties lead to talk of descending, but for me, because we had come so far now, we needed to be certain.  We carried on. Gradually through the mirk, we caught glimpses of the ice falls lining the back of the corrie and then, on one brief clearance, we saw climbers on the cliff. Immediately our spirits lifted and the stride of our pace increased.  The full extent of the corrie was finally revealed with drapes of blue, fat ice flowing down the cliff, natural lines of beauty waiting to be explored.

 

Looking up Poachers Fall 

We literally couldn’t gear up fast enough, before grunting our way up steep soft snow, fully clothed and laden.  Every other step collapsed under my weight and progress was tiresome.  The first pitch fell to me to lead, which started easily enough, but soon steepened into an ice gully, thawing snow, thin ice on rocks, then a vertical free standing ice pillar, which I managed to defeat with a zigzag line across left then back right.  The belay consisted of an insitu hex and a Camalot three quarter.  Dave followed up and whilst he did so, the leader on the party above took a fall, off the vertical pillar on pitch two.  It went quiet for a while, but thankfully he indicated he was ok and the tension eased.  After resting he went on to finish the pitch, but not without some apprehension from those of us belayed directly below him.  By then Dave was hot on the heels of the second man, who he eventually caught up at Belay two.  After seconding the vertical pillar I was disappointed, though not surprised, to see the lead climber of the pair in front half way up the next pitch.  He tapped at the ice like a school girl and it was all I could do to stop myself from shouting for him to hit the stuff harder.  I was also mindful that he had taken a leader fall earlier due to being pumped and that he was probably still too weak to hit the ice hard.  I breathed another sigh of relief when he finally disappeared from sight to shout he was safe.  The weather had been up to its tricks again on the first two pitches, but at least now we were high enough for it to be snow not rain.  Periodically it would clear and rays of sunshine would illuminate sections of the wilderness, then just as suddenly visibility would deteriorate and prolonged wet snow flurries would sweep in.  This resulted in us being fairly damp with comfort levels varying from cold, due to the inactivity whilst waiting, to hot whilst moving. 

 

Dave Mawer starting pitch two                                                         The descent gully 

The second man of the party in front was struggling to get the gear out of the belay.  Dave was unimpressed and politely asked if we could continue.  I set off and soon realised that this piece of mixed climbing, up a steep corner crack, was easier than it looked.  I scraped my way upward, torqueing in cracks, whilst snow steps collapsed underneath me.  At least twice I was left dangling from my axes.  At half way it got easier, offering some welcome ice, which allowed normal climbing to resume.  Unfortunately I had managed to climb between the ropes of the party who we were attempting to overtake, so a tangle ensued, leading to one of us needing to untie a rope.  Despite the potential for confrontation, we maintained an air of camaraderie and Dave even shared the jelly babies between us all.

The angle of the final pitch eased to moderate ice and snow and we panted our way up the easier ground past the opposition, onto a finishing ridge.  All the activity meant we had missed the subtle change in weather, which was breaking now with longer spells of sunshine bathing the landscape.  Looking out on the Wester Ross Hills towards the sea, we were rewarded with a view of frozen lochans and Torridonian Sandstone Giants cloaked in snow, their stratified layers standing out like the contours on a map.  There was a breathless peace, incapable of capture by any camera, and only time drove us to traverse off into the descent gully and recapture our rightful place in destiny.

Rjukan – Norway.

Adrian Berry.

The trip to Norway had been planned long before the trip to Cogne. The group I joined was put together through UKC after a number of the members of the original group pulled out. The trip started at the Ryanair check-in desk where we were treated with the usual contempt. At one point one of us was required to lighten our check-in bag by 900grams. Our despatch was hindered by the fact the our group had in it's collective hand luggage a bottle of cognac, a collection of toiletries, and a pair of crampons. Just before boarding there was a second weigh-in for hand luggage which required wearing all our cold weather clothing onto the plane. I shan't be flying with Ryanair EVER AGAIN.

After three hours of driving along roads that the gritters had long given up on. We arrived at Rjukan. The first thing we noticed was how cold it was - getting down to -25°C at night, and not much warmer in the day - staying warm by always taking a substantial belay jacket was the order of the week. I was to team up with Mike Bate for the week as we were fairly evenly matched on ice.

We started with a day on the closest ice to our accommodation, by climbing Vemorkbrufoss Ost (4) and Vest (5) at Vemork Bridge . Both routes felt quite soft for their grades compared to the routes at Cogne, something that was evident all week. We finished the day on Tungtvann (4) after soloing the first pitch. The following day we moved up the gorge to the Upper Gorge and started off on Blindtarmen (4) which felt hard as there was some very brittle ice, and some odd thin ice that had formed on top of powder snow. We then did Sabotorfossen, a brilliant 5 and one of the best routes we did all week. With a 5 done, there was no going back to slabby routes - the next day, after an all-too-leisurely start, we got to Rjukan Centre and marched up to do For Alle Menn (5) - we did the left and right line, both good 5s, though things got a bit cold when the sun went down before I had to start seconding the second pitch off the left line. Hanging belays on ice screws on a big icy cliff in the dark when the temperature is probably below -20 is not a jolly place to be.

  A Climber on Klappfoss (4) Rjukan Centre       Mike leading up Vemorkbrufoss Vest (5) 

After the late finish at Rjukan Centre, I took a rest day, and a good job too, the following day we headed out to have a crack at Jovsoyla (6) a superb big cascade that the word on the street suggested was formed in a particularly amenable condition. We got to the start before anyone else, but were soon overtaken by a strong Italian who took a short-cut up mixed ground. The second pitch was my lead, Mike was belaying off a poor spike and the second pitch lead off towards the start of the cascade proper, following a snowy rocky traverse. Not too impressed with the belay, I was cautious and slow - at one point clipping a tool as a runner. The pitch turned out to not be as bad as it looked, though still the crux of the route in many ways. Following the 60m vertical cascade was great fun - it was covered in steps and required only hooking with the tools. On the way back we got a quick ascent of Tanja (5) which is usually M5, though this time formed all the way down.

The last day could have been a bit of an anti-climax, we headed to Krokan for some technical fun. The first route we did was a genuinely overhanging cigar that is normally the end of Lucky Lisa - it was bullet-hard and Mike's lead was impressive - even if he did grab a tree at the lip. Next we found a mixed line right of De Kaller Meg Fjard - which was probably another 5 - though tenuous with the gear, as most of the ice was too thin for screws and I had to get protection by threading behind the icicles - most no thicker than a leg. Next, Mike wanted to get a proper 'M' route done - and so had a go on Two Assholes and Five Nice Bolts (M6) - he came off the very last move after a pick blew - he was shared on a tool at that point and his other tool was still in the rock when I got the flash. As we were climbing the M6, we noticed a guy casually soloing a very impressive cigar of ice, both up and down. That was the last thing we climbed, it was another 'M' route where the ice had reached the ground to make a good grade 5 (Bored to the Extreme).

And that was the end of the ice for another year. I'm looking at driving down to France in two days - but at the moment the van has no engine. Though even that is preferable to Ryanair.

 

Me seconding the first pitch up the pillar of Jovsoyla 

Info from James Tubby.

First of all thank you to those of you who sent me cards/emails/ phone calls following my accident in November. My recovery is going well. The nerve damage still a long way from fully healed which gives some complications, but the broken bone seems to have healed and I am now almost back to 'normal' on that front. I have been running & cycling over the last few weeks. I plan to be out climbing this summer, starting on the 31st at Harboro'. 
Normal life has a new meaning for me now anyway. My wife Karen gave birth to our first child on Monday, William James Tubby. They came out of hospital on Tuesday so we are now learning about looking after baby.
 I probably won't be able to make the AGM, so I'll take this opportunity to thank Simon and all the committee for all your hard work over the last year.  James. 

New Oread Arrives !!!!

The Oread would like to congratulate James Tubby and his wife Karen on the birth of their first child William James Tubby (6lb, 12oz). Both Mother and baby are doing well’

Membership – Reuben Dakin.

Thank you for paying your subs. If you think you’ve paid, but not yet received your membership card, please let me know so we can sort out why. A list of paid-up members and other contacts is included with this newsletter. 

BMC Membership Refunds and Upgrades

Oread pays £11.75 on your behalf to the BMC in respect of your club membership of the BMC. If you are a member of more than one BMC affiliated club, or are also a full individual member of the BMC, this fee has been paid more than once. You can reclaim this money using the application form available from me on application. You do not need to fill in the form if you reclaimed last year. 

There are also details of how to upgrade to full individual membership of the BMC.

BMC Insurance

Details of your BMC 3rd party insurance are available from me on application. 

Steve Venables.

I note that Steve is giving a lecture at Derby Assembly Rooms on April 22nd (19.30 £12) on “In the Steps of Shackleton”, If you want to go ring 01332 255800 for tickets.

 

Hut Bookings for April.

Please note that hut fees should always be paid to me and no one else. Colin Hobday. 

HEATHY LEA

April 9/10th.      Dave Helliwell     Cottage and barn   April 16thth,      Roy Sawyer      Cottage.

April 23/24th.    Oread meet.

TAN-YR-WYDDFA

April 2/5th.        Easter               12 beds.                     April 9/10th.      Skyline MC      16 beds.

April 11/16th.    Hurstpierpoint School  WHOLE HUT April 16/18th.    Gordon Gadsby  WHOLE HUT.

April 23/24th.    Derby MC           16 beds.                    May 30/3rd.      May Bank Holiday.   


RECIPROCAL RIGHTS, The new hut booking secretary for the  Flyde MC. is  Andy Hird,

Tel. 01772 769337. Please amend your handbook.

I have a large upright fridge/ freezer that needs transporting to Tan-Yr-Wyddfa,

Size 173 x 60 x 60 cm. (large van required) help with fuel cost. Please contact Colin Hobday or Tony Howard, Many Thanks.

Forthcoming Meets

April

Fri 2nd / Mon 5th

Easter Jersey

Derek Pike

01332 670459

 

Tues 13th

Committee Meets Royal Oak Ockbrook

 

 

 

Sat 17th/Sun 18th

Wye Valley Meet

Angela Pingram

01159 691992

 

Wed 21st

Eve meet - pub Robin Hood

 

 

 

Sat 24th/Sun 25th

Heathy Lea Beginners Meet

Michael Bate

07825 629061

May

Sat 1st to Mon 3rd

Gower Camping Meet

Reuben Dakin

01332 834543

 

Sat 8th – Sun 9th

Northumberland Bellingham

Dave Helliwell

01298 812753

 

Tues 11th

Committee Meets Royal Oak Ockbrook

 

 

 

Wed 19th

Evening Meet Pub Millstone.

 

 

 

Sat 29th – Mon 31st

Arran Lochranza

Chris Wilson

01283 520911

 

Sat 29th – Mon 31st 

Cornwall (Parallel Meet)

Roy Eyre

01623 469658

June

Sat 12th – Sun 13th

Heathy Lea Work Party.

HSC

 

 

Tues 15th

Committee Meets Royal Oak Ockbrook

 

 

 

Sat 19th – Sun 20th

Tan yr Wyddfa

John Green

01332 832101

 

Wed 23rd

Longest (Wednes)day

James Tubby

01283 736737

 

Sat 26th – Sun 27th

High House - Borrowdale

Simon Pape

01629 822450

Copyright – Oread Mountaineering Club.

Editor: John Green, Ivy Cottage, Church Lane, Morley Derbys. 01332 832101

Email – This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.